Lead Photo Credit: @Mammothmountain Instagram
Mammoth Mountain opened November 5. That is eight days ahead of its own schedule. Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe followed the very next morning. Colorado beat them to it by a week. Ski season on the West Coast is officially here and with it comes the first après ski of the winter.
The snow may be a bit thin. The groomers are early season firm. Nobody cares. That first beer back at the lodge is the one that you have been waiting for since last March.
What Is Opening Day Après?
Open day après ski is a return to what we’ve been missing the last eight months. It’s the first ski drink of the season usually consumed with a view of the only open run on the mountain. The skiing, limited as it may be, is on purpose. It’s a lift or two and a few trails built by snow guns and determination. And you can guarantee that the lift line will be full of people who, out of the blue, had a dentist appointment that day.
While it is great to be back sliding on snow, the limited amount of runs makes après ski the real event. It’s a reunion with everyone you haven’t seen since spring, minus the goggle tans.
Ski Resorts Open Now, and Who’s Next
- Arapahoe Basin, Colorado: open since October 28
- Keystone, Colorado: open since October 30
- Mammoth Mountain, California: open since November 5
- Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe, Nevada: open since November 6
- Loveland, Colorado: open since November 7
- Copper Mountain, Colorado: open since November 8
- Jackson Hole, Wyoming: Friday, November 27
- Dolomiti Superski, Italy: first areas November 28, Val Gardena December 4
Mammoth Opening Day: A Toast at 11 a.m
Mammoth opened with Broadway Express and the Lower Panorama Gondola spinning on the first day. That included three trails, and more than a foot of new snow from a storm that showed up right on cue. The spectacle was real. Wooly broke through the banner at 8:30 am and by 11 am all those in attendance were raising a small free beer on the sundeck at Tusks for the annual kickoff to ski season toast.
In the early season, Tusk’s bar in the main base lodge is the warmup. Until more of the mountain opens it carries the scene through the early weeks until the après ski party series at the Canyon Lodge gets going. I’ve been and that weekend crowd is wild. It is less of a bar scene and more of a music festival with ski boots on, so plan accordingly.
Mt. Rose Opening Day: The Highest Bar Stool in Tahoe
Mt. Rose sits on the highest base in Tahoe at 8,260 feet, 25 miles from downtown Reno. That altitude is the whole cheat code. Day one was Kit Carson Bowl on a thin, fast coat of snow. Firm in the morning, soft by lunch, and full of regulars hugging in the lift line like they were visiting their family on Thanksgiving three weeks early.
Après ski at Mount Rose happens at Timbers Bar in the Main Lodge, which pours craft beer and cocktails and usually has live music on weekends. The deck there is expansive and on a nice day is where most will hang to drink their beers. Once the Slide side opens, Sky Bar at Winters Creek Lodge has a stunning view of the Washoe Valley. The view is significantly better than what most bars charge for, but fair warning, you’ll pay for it. A canned beer in the cafe can run you $11. It’s Tahoe though so your wallet knew this was coming.
Arapahoe Basin Opening Day: Tailgate on The Beach
With almost no warning, Arapahoe Basin opened on October 28. One lift and one run, High Noon off Black Mountain Express. That’s par for the course, but the 30 people waiting for the first chair didn’t seem to mind. By noon the crowd swelled to a few hundred which should give you a good idea of who skis A-Basin in October.
Après here is famous for the parking lot scene. The Beach is the row of ski in, ski out spots near the frontside lifts. It runs like a tailgate party with a chairlift: grills, coolers, camp chairs and somebody’s speaker losing a fight with the wind. On day one though, 6th Alley Bar and Grill at the base is a must. Aside from it being the day you can purchase your mug for the mug club, it has a two story deck and a Bloody Mary the menu calls award winning. The bar opens at 8 on weekends. Not judgement here.
Keystone Opening Day: Patio Season on the Snake River
Keystone wasn’t too far behind. They opened on October 30 with more than 2 miles of skiing on Schoolmarm and Silver Spoon and about 600 snow guns behind it. They even had free donuts at the bottom. The River Run Gondola does the heavy lifting connecting village to the snow.
When you’re done, ride it down and walk right on over to Kickapoo Tavern in River Run Village. The patio sits along the Snake River, the River Run burger and the pretzel bites are exactly the sustenance you need for your first day.
Jackson Hole Opening Day and the $9,800 Moose Club
Jackson Hole opens Friday, November 27, the same morning that the Mangy Moose picked to launch a members only ski club for its 60th winter. The ever-evolving GOAT of après ski will now offer a full membership that runs $9,800. Pony up and your membership includes a ski locker, boot valet, a reserved fireside lounge, a $500 food and beverage credit and a commemorative anniversary ski. While this sounds outstanding, it is exclusive and only 100 memberships will be sold.
Don’t worry though, the saloon is staying it’s good old awesome self. So for the rest of us, that $500 bar credit is just called the weekend.
Dolomites Opening Day: Grappa Season Starts December 4
The ski season at Dolomiti Superski kicks off November 28 in Plan de Corones and a few other areas while Val Gardena follows on December 4. The last time I was in Val Gardena, I sipped and savored grappa made from pine cones on a deck at a rifugio during my lunch. There was no rush to return to the slopes.
That’s the beauty of the Dolomites. The skiing is world class yet somehow it’s still the second reason you go. The first is the rifugio at noon, a sunny deck, a glass of something strong and the light hitting the Sella Group just right that it turns pink all while you decide whether one more lap is really necessary.
It isn’t. Order another one.
About the Author
Rich Stoner is the founder of All About Après, an après ski lifestyle clothing and media brand, and co-host of the Après All Day Podcast. He has written about skiing, travel, gear, beer and food for years, including for Gear Patrol. You can find him carving turns and drinking beers in the Green Mountains of Vermont. Start your ski weekend off right with his Après Report Newsletter delivered free every Friday. @allaboutapres