Intense video from Washington State where Canadian skier Brian Kun Baek momentarily lost his bearings on Mt. Baker and nearly ended up at the bottom of a deep crevasse.
Baek saw a navigable ski line over a couple snow bridges while hiking up Squak Glacier located on the southeast slopes of Mt. Baker and was heading toward what he thought was the second of the bridges when the ground suddenly dropped out from under him. Thankfully his reaction time was lightning fast and he was able to jump over the crevasse:
“It’s a good thing I was able to react quickly. Point the sticks down, a little pop off the lip, send it over the abyss. Pretty bummed that I didn’t land it, ’cause I ain’t hitting that again.”
“On July 20, while I was heading up the Squak Glacier on Mount Baker at dawn, I noticed a line passing over a couple snow bridges meeting back up with the bootpack. I took a mental note of it and took a long hard look at the terrain as I slogged up the glacier. I also noticed that the crevasses around the snow bridges weren’t the giant ones that could swallow a house, like the ones on Easton Glacier or Coleman-Deming. There also seemed to be a nice little drop, but I decided to stick to the more conservative line.
A few hours later, with the sun shining bright, I found myself skiing down the Roman Wall. I found confidence in my turns as the snow was in optimal corn condition. I followed my tracks back down and eventually found myself at the top of the line that I saw in the morning.
I saw the first obvious snowbridge and made a wide turn around the toe. I then saw the second snowbridge, or so I thought (it was actually a couple meters further skier’s right). The striped pattern in the snow caused an illusion, similar to a pack of zebras or WW2 warships, and my depth perception was deceived. As I approached the bridge something felt a bit off. I decided to scrub some speed coming into the next turn so that I could have more time to react if needed. However, I saw in my peripherals that a huge crack was starting to appear to my right. I knew that I had messed up, big time.
At that moment, time slowed down and my mind became calm and focused. The gap appeared in front of me; I saw that I was going to make it and my legs knew what to do. My past two seasons at Whistler/Blackcomb consisted of finding things to jump off of, so it became a reflex. I turned my skis downhill, got a little pop off the lip and tucked, and sent it over the abyss. As I flew over the crack I got a good look down to the bottom, it was a long way down.
Fortunately I cleared the gap with about 2 feet to spare, but I was pretty bummed that I didn’t stick the landing. I even thought about trying again, however I thought about the hike back up and decided to continue skiing down. I was a little rattled and stopped after 10 or so turns down the glacier. I had to yell at myself, DID YOU DIE?! NO! DON’T DO THAT S*** AGAIN, now get the hell off this mountain. After that little outburst of emotion, I finished skiing down the glacier and got some epic summer corn turns.”
Backcountry skiing on glaciers can be an incredibly rewarding experience but must done with extreme caution. Here is a quick beginners guide to glacial ski mountaineering from the good folks at G3. Watching this video does not make you qualified to safely ski glaciers but it serve as a refresher or the beginning to your ongoing safety education journey:
Related: Backcountry Guide Demonstrates The Dangers of Operating Close To Crevasses
Glacier Ski Mountaineering Safety Guide
1. Identifying Safe Terrain
Safe terrain selection is critical to avoid crevasses, which are cracks in the glacier caused by stress on its surface. Understanding where crevasses are likely to form is key to safe navigation.
- Crevasse Formation: Crevasses typically form where the glacier bends or rolls over terrain, similar to how a soft eraser breaks when bent. These stress points often occur at:
- Convex Rolls: Areas where the slope rolls over, such as at the top of a steep section, are common crevasse zones. These are analogous to trigger points in avalanche-prone terrain.
- Protruding Features: Rocks or other obstacles that disrupt the glacier’s flow can create crevasses.
- Complex Glacier Features: Areas with frequent rolls or bends are highly prone to crevasses, making safe route-finding challenging.
- Route-Finding Tips:
- Avoid convex rolls and areas with visible cracks or irregular terrain.
- Look for planar benches (flat, consistent areas) that are less likely to hide crevasses.
- In complex glacier terrain with no clear safe zones, assume crevasses are present and prepare accordingly.
2. Deciding When to Rope Up
Roping up is a critical safety measure when traveling on glaciers, especially in crevasse-heavy areas. The decision to rope up depends on three main factors:
- Familiarity with the Area:
- If you know the glacier well (ski it regularly and know crevasse locations) you may have higher confidence in unroped travel.
- In unfamiliar terrain, roping up is strongly recommended due to unknown crevasse risks.
- Weather and Visibility:
- Clear Conditions: Bluebird days with good visibility allow better identification of crevasses and safer navigation.
- Whiteout Conditions: Poor visibility increases the risk of missing crevasse signs, making roping up essential.
- Snowpack Conditions:
- Deep, Settled Snowpack: Late-season conditions with a deep, well-consolidated snowpack can bridge crevasses, reducing risk.
- Shallow or Early-Season Snowpack: Thin snow cover is less likely to bridge crevasses, increasing the need to rope up.
3. Decision-Making Process
The decision to rope up or travel unroped is situational and requires careful evaluation of the above factors. Follow these steps to make informed decisions:
- Assess Familiarity: Consider how well you know the glacier. Have you skied it frequently, or is it a new area with unknown risks?
- Evaluate Weather: Check visibility. Can you clearly see the terrain to identify potential crevasses, or is visibility limited?
- Analyze Snowpack: Determine the snow depth and consolidation. A deep, settled snowpack increases confidence, while a shallow or unstable snowpack heightens risk.
- Weigh Confidence Level: Combine these factors to gauge your confidence. For example:
- High Confidence: Familiar terrain, clear visibility, and a deep snowpack may allow unroped travel in low-risk areas.
- Low Confidence: Unfamiliar terrain, whiteout conditions, or a thin snowpack necessitates roping up.
Practical Tips for Safe Glacier Travel
- Always Carry Proper Gear: Ensure you have a rope, harness, ice axe, and crevasse rescue equipment (prusiks, pulleys, ect) when traveling on glaciers.
- Travel with a Team: Glacier travel is safer with partners who are trained in crevasse rescue techniques.
- Practice Crevasse Rescue: Regularly train in crevasse rescue to ensure you and your team are prepared for emergencies.
- Stay Alert: Continuously reassess conditions as you travel, as weather, snowpack, and terrain can change rapidly.
- Use Navigation Tools: Maps, GPS, or guidebooks can help identify known crevasse zones and safer routes.
By carefully identifying terrain, evaluating conditions, and making informed decisions about roping up, you can significantly enhance your safety during glacier ski mountaineering. Always prioritize preparation, experience, and caution to ensure a safe and enjoyable adventure.
