Thanks to International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) certified guide Ben Markhart for this eye opening demonstration of why it can be exceedingly dangerous operating near crevasses. Using his probe, Markhart punched fully through the snow/ice structure to show how uphill side of crevasses are often more overhanging and why it is critical to use extreme caution when approaching one.
Markhart offers many backcountry safety training courses including one geared towards glacial skiing safety:
“If you want to ski on glaciers I recommend leaning about glacier safety on real glaciers as the margin for error skiing unroped is very small. We don’t want to focus on rescue skills in this context but avoidance skills. While the skills on these programs are very transferable to a ski context don’t think they replace supervised milage on real glaciers.”Â
If you would like to learn more about safety training with Markhart, you can find more information here.
This is a key consideration if you operating close to crevasses. Most often the uphill side of the crevasse will be far more overhanging.
Here we see Brian being duly cautious approaching the uphill side and even using his probe to verify how overhanging it is. In general we always want to get eyes onto a crevasse lip before we approach, but it’s not always realistic. I’m far more cautious when approaching from the uphill side to try to get eyes on in the first place. I’d also try to place my rescue site on the downhill side as well if possible, even if the skier went in coming from the uphill side.
This subtleties of how real crevasses form are essential to effective rescue, this is why I always recommend learning about crevasse rescue in a realistic environment. Ideally on real glaciers. Until you’ve been in a real crevasse on purpose don’t think you’re ready to go in on accident.
This video is from a 5 day glacier skiing and experience seminar, these programs are by far the best bang for your buck if you want to learn glacier safety, check out the link in bio and get in touch if you want to learn real and practical glacier skills.
