Sundial Peak
Sundial Peak viewed from Lake Blanche
Sundial Peak
Sundial Peak viewed from Lake Blanche

Are you tired of the heat in Salt Lake City and need an escape to mountains?  Do you need a climbing adventure while you’re at it?  Check out The 11th Hour, located on Sundial Peak.  Sundial Peak is located in Big Cottonwood Canyon and to get to it, head to the popular “S-Curve” climbing area parking lot.  Then head up Mill-B South for 3 miles and 3000 vertical feet.  The hike to Lake Blanche is a well maintained trail with many “stair step” rocks.

Daryn Edmunds halfway up The 11th Hour
Daryn Edmunds halfway up The 11th Hour

The 11th Hour is an average of a 5.8 climb over 3-5 pitches and 500 feet of smooth slabs and finger cracks you dream about.  Weather you climb or not, the hike to Lake Blanche is well worth it and once you’re 500 feet off the deck, it is that much better.

Myself, standing on top, 500 feet up
Myself, standing on top, 500 feet up

Being in a protected wilderness area, there is no fixed gear such as bolts at the belay stations.  Instead there are some slings around rocks and on the raps down there are slings and rap rings on several trees.  Being safety conscious climbers we all worry about gear that isn’t ours, especially gear exposed to the elements everyday.  Being responsible climbers we should also replace old worn gear from time to time.  Such as I plan to do if I return to this excellent climb.

Recently Black Diamond’s climbing quality assurance team pulled and replaced fixed gear from all over Utah and put it to the test.  The results may surprise you!

QC LAB: Gear Doesn’t Last Forever – SLINGS & QUICKDRAWS

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2 replies on “The 11th Hour | Sundial Peak Trad Climbing | Plus Black Diamond Fixed Gear Testing”