“It was a white elephant break. He paddle out, dove, and found the reef. He thought it was bullshit.”

Sometimes you meet an old timer at the bar and they get going about the good old days and you find an excuse to politely slip away, then there’s guys like Greg Noll who you’ll sponsor round after round just to keep the stories coming. Listen as the surf legend recalls a 1964 experience he had at Pipeline off Ehukai Beach Park on O’ahu’s North Shore. This man can paint a picture. This is a special human being: