Lead Photo – Skiers taking in the view at Whitefish Mountain Resort Credit: Brian Schott
On October 10, 1,430 people lined up on Main Street in Park City to take shots of High West Double Rye from a shotski made from 550 skis. What transpired that day is a new world record, interestingly enough in a state where grocery stores won’t even sell you beer over 5%.
Let that sit for a second.
October is the dead month. Not because Halloween falls within it. Rather it consists of the weeks between the last leaf peeper and the first chair. It is also when ski towns get a little weird, cheap and, in some cases, desperate for business. It’s great! However, it can certainly wreck your trip, so here is the field guide to make sure it doesn’t.
What Is the Dead Month in a Ski Town?
The dead month in ski towns runs from late October to opening day. It’s when the lifts are parked in go position, the restaurants take their vacations before the rush, and the only crowd in town are the locals rocking fleece. The weather at this time isn’t the issue. It’s characteristically great. The real problem is that the lifts, the restaurants, the flights and, most importantly, the snow operate on their own timeline and none of them let the other know.
Park City Shoulder Season: The Whiskey Bar Takes a Nap
Good news is that Park City Mountain Resort is targeting November 20 for their opening day while its neighbor Deer Valley is saying they’ll open on December 5. Now, the bad news. High West Saloon has a history of closing from mid-November to early December. This is not confirmed for this year, but the pattern dates back a while. The town’s flagship apres ski bar takes a whiskey induced nap during the exact time you want to get your early season laps in.
This fix is simple, call ahead and have a backup plan. You may or may not know this, but there is a bar hidden behind an unassuming door in Kemo Sabe on Main Street. They’re pouring during store hours daily so you can get a craft cocktail and a fitted cowboy hat all in one sitting. That’s pretty much the most Park City thing ever and worth it no matter what time of year you go.
The second trap that you may run into, especially if you’re visiting over the Thanksgiving holiday, is that Utah state liquor stores are closed on holidays and Sundays. So if you are spending Thanksgiving out there and are on wine duty, you best pick it up before Wednesday. Otherwise, don’t blame me for having to explain to your mother in law why you showed up empty handed.
Whitefish: Lifts on December 4, Flights on December 18
Whitefish Mountain Resort is scheduled to open December 4. Here’s the caveat. Last winter United Airline’s nonstops into Glacier Park International did not start until December 18. So, if history repeats itself and you live close enough to get there by car, you can be skiing for two weeks before the airline believes you can.
There is also the notion that Montana’s general deer and elk rifle season runs through November 29 and the bears are in a state of hyperphagia which is a fancy way of saying, “they’re eating everything before their five month slumber.” That said, it may be best to outfit yourself in some blaze orange and carry some bear spray. The cute oatmeal colored fleece that screams “I’m a deer” may be best left at home.
Even if you don’t live within driving distance, you can still get to Whitefish early in the season, you just have to connect through Denver. Aim for mid-December. The super El Niño map suggests that’s the play. Downtown, The Great Northern is the place to be. If the skiing doesn’t pan out for the day, you can always head there to shoot some pool or play ping pong until the live music hits the stage at night. At the mountain, the nachos at the Hellroaring Saloon are the reason I’d stand in line waiting there evey time.
Mount Snow: Nobody Knows Opening Day
The projection for Mount Snow’s opening day that keeps being posted is November 21. In recent years, this has meant roughly 50 acres or 8% of the mountain. That is half of New England ripping down three trails.
Not by coincidence, Vermont’s rifle season falls during this same time frame. While hunters are only urged, not required, to wear orange it may be in your best interest to put some on yourself, and maybe your dog too.
As far as timing goes, aim for the second or third weekend and enjoy the season of the sticks as Noah Kahan sings. It’s Vermont’s unofficial sixth season where the humming of the snow guns blowing snow on the bare trees is music to our ears.
Taos Ski Valley Opening Day: Best Deal, No Way to Get There
Taos opens Thanksgiving Day, November 26, with adult lift tickets at $75 through December 10. This is the best early season deal of the four resorts that are mentioned and with the super El Niño hype leaning towards Taos, this could be your best bet. There is one caveat, the JSX flights from Dallas and Austin don’t start until December 14. If you plan on going before then, you can connect on Contour out of Denver, Monday through Thursdays, or fly to Albuquerque and make the two and half our drive from there.
With a base altitude of 9,207 feet, it is in your best interest to take it easy on the first day and drink more water than you think. Trust me, at that altitude the second martini from the Martini Tree Bar will hit a bit differently if you don’t.
Pro tip for our Texas readers, wait for the half price Early Season Ski Week. It starts December 13, the day before the flights do. Sleep in town and ride the bus up the 18 winding miles of NM 150. Don’t rely on Uber, it’s about as real in Taos as a Jackalope.
How to Survive Early Season Skiing
- Pack your rock skis. The white ribbon of death has rocks that make the trail look more like and Easter egg hunt than a true run. Those core shots repairs will cost you, although these days the price may actually be cheaper than resort chicken tenders.
- Plan to ski after lunch. The first chair crowd dwindles by noon and the few trails that are open will have far less people on them. In 2024/25 two thirds of the catastrophic injuries happened on green and blue terrain. Early in the season this is exactly where everyone gets funneled, so waiting a few hours to start your day is in your best interest.
- If you can set up your ski pass app or pass at home, do it. It will save you time when you get to the mountain and money since most resorts will charge at the window to print the physical pass.
Somewhere on a mountain, the snow guns are coughing themself to life after their long summer slumber. You and the bartender glance out the window, then at each other as he smiles and pours another round.
About the Author
Rich Stoner is the founder of the après-ski lifestyle clothing and media brand, All About Après. He is also the co-host of the Après All Day Podcast. No stranger to the ski and après-ski scene, Rich has been a long time contributor for many publications on topics like skiing, travel, gear, beer and food. However, his passion is on the slopes and enjoying good times with good people. You can find him perfecting his craft carving turns and drinking beers in the Green Mountains of Vermont. @allaboutapres