IDAHO SPRINGS, Colorado – I’ve talked plenty about how I’m not ready to give up skiing just because it’s July, but until this summer, I was yet to actually go skiing in July. Now there is a skiing option at a resort in Colorado this time of year. Copper Mountain hosts a hike-to park throughout the summer, but it’s mostly rails and, frankly, I’m just not a park skier. I wanted to get in some actual, on-snow turns on a July weekend, so a buddy and I drove up to the St. Mary’s Glacier trailhead just outside of Idaho Springs, packed up our backpacks, and got some good ol’ warm weather earn-your-turn ski runs.
Leaving early enough on a summer Saturday means you can unbelievably skip all traffic on the way up. We hit the road from the Denver area at 6:30am, and even then I was worried we’d hit some traffic. But we made it in just around an hour and were able to get on the trail by 7:30.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Parking at St. Mary’s Glacier is not free. There’s a $20 charge for the closer lots, and some 10$ lots further away. The close lots ask you to either pay on your phone, or put $20 (cash or check) in a small envelope with your license plate written on it (bring a pen if you hope to pay this way!) and slide that into a little mail box. They do apparently check that parking lot frequently, so don’t try to skip the payment.
The trail to the mountain lake is just around half a mile. Quick and easy, except for the uneven and rocky terrain. There are a few points where you might have to lean in a weird way or lift your backpack to avoid scraping your skis on rocks and trees. Just take your time and be cautious. After half a mile, the stunning St. Mary’s Glacier lake reveals itself, but enjoying the lake is still better saved for later.
The hike from the lake to the bottom of the snowfield (St. Mary’s Glacier isn’t actually a glacier, it’s a permanent snowfield) is its own, noticeable section, though it’s only about a quarter of a mile. You cross a small bridge and walk through some fairly thick brush, which might be a bit of a battle with your skis on your back, but you’ll make it just fine. The bottom of the glacier provides a pretty stunning view of the lake and the mountains behind it, so take your time and enjoy the moment.
The hike to the top of the snowfield, according to my Strava, was about three quarters of a mile with different turns easily navigate the terrain and avoid walking on snow. If you want to just shoot straight up, it’s probably closer to half a mile. We chose to walk along a rocky trail next to the snow as much as possible, making it easier to hold traction. It’s really up to you, whatever’s easiest. The later in the summer you head up there, the less snow there will be. You won’t have to hike as far if you wait until late August, but you also won’t be able to ski as far.
The skiing was honestly a lot better than anticipated. The snow was rough and uneven, but it wasn’t too scratchy, and we weren’t constantly dodging rocks. The run came out to be around half a mile in total, so there’s plenty of room to get some solid turns down.
Really there are two runs you can do. One fairly tame but long run, and one steeper but shorter run. We chose to stick to the mellow, longer run just for the sake of getting the most out of our work. Keep an eye out for hikers and unleashed dogs on the snow as you head down. This is Colorado we’re talking about, and St. Mary’s Glacier isn’t unpopular. Two laps took us around two hours with some snack breaks.
Once your done with skiing, the lake offers a fantastic way to conclude the trip. It’s cold, yes. Frigid, even. But it’s incredibly welcoming after a day of hiking and skiing. There are beach areas wrapping around the lake, and a pretty intimidating cliff jumping area if you’re feeling brave. Obviously, if you choose to cliff jump, do so at your own risk. The water is cold and not the deepest in the world, so please understand what you’re getting into.
Wearing quick-dry clothing means you can just swim in your shorts and dry on the hike down, but I tossed a hand towel in my bag just to be safe (I’d say it was worth it). From the lake, it’s just a hike back down the .5 mile trail, and you’re back at your car.
A few things to note: 1) This is not a beginner skiing activity. The slope is not that steep, but the terrain is unpredictable and unmitigated. I would only recommend doing this if you’re comfortable skiing any in-bound terrain. 2) St. Mary’s Glacier trail is very popular. Head out out early or the parking lot might be full, and you might be forced to add an extra mile or more to the hike. 3) Bring plenty of water, snacks, and sunscreen. You’re hiking at a high altitude. Be smart.
4) Be prepared to answer a ton of questions. St. Mary’s Glacier is one of the easiest to access mountain lakes near the Denver area, so there are plenty of tourists heading up there, and they will be curious. Be friendly, answer their questions, understand that you become a part of the tourism experience by doing cool stuff like this.
Get after it and have some fun this summer!
